Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
